From 30- to 40-year-old vines in fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil, the 2006 Cotes d’Auxerre Biaumont smells of fresh lemon, iris, and rich chicken stock; offers a caressing creaminess of texture yet at the same time more brightness and grip than its sibling Gueule de Loup and alluring persistent florality; and finishes penetratingly with refined texture, and superb refreshment, tinged with chalk, lemon pip and cherry pit bitterness. I suspect that it will be worth following for at least 5-7 years. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29