Georg Breuer Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Rheingau, Germany

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The Breuer principle has consistently been early selection rather than late harvest for botryits, and this has often resulted in nobly sweet Riesling of remarkable delicacy and refinement. But the weather of 2006 precluded that strategy, and amid the botrytis that spread so widely and rapidly after the October rains, the team was still able to pick out some surprisingly successful elixirs. They also bottled a generic Rheingau Auslese, but did not show it to me. Smoke, musk, quince preserves, honey, and brown spices waft from the glass of Breuer 2006 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule signaling an advanced state of botrytization confirmed by a creamy texture and a caramelized edge to its quince, and over-ripe pear fruit. One misses some sense of refreshment and a bit of clarity, and the finish is rather over-riding in sweetness. But this will serve impressively over the next 5-7 years with the right desserts or foie gras preparations, and perhaps sheer ripeness and residual sugar – along with the inherent pedigree of its terroir — will carry it for longer than I think. Heinrich Breuer and Hermann Schmoranz began their Riesling harvest October 6, and finished in record time. Selective picking and watchful decantation and selection of the musts, rather than the use of treatments, was the approach taken here to the problematic health and botrytis of the vintage. The results included a 40% reduction in volume over their recent average.Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 547-0255