Poller’s 2007 Gelber Muskateller offers an excellent and highly affordable introduction to a distinctive, traditional variety. Sage flower, peppermint, and pennyroyal on the nose lead to a sappy palate filled with lemon cream, resin, and herbal concentrates, finishing with faint bitterness but an ample sense of refreshment that cannot always be presumed with this grape.Among countless small family estates in a plethora of wine villages along the Czech border, that of ambitious Erwin Poller stands out for both quality and value. His liter bottling of Gruner Veltliner represented a truly amazing value in both the 2005 and 2006 vintages, but I did not have chance to sample the 2007. I did however sample almost the entire rest of Poller’s impressive 2007 collection (with him absent).Importer Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel (510) 549 2444
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