Toni Jost Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spatlese

點擊次數(shù)：2285

White peach and lemon on the nose and palate of Josts’ 2011 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spatlese are mingled with notes of toasted grain such as were found in their dry renditions of the vintage from this site. Silken in texture and soothing as well as persistently juicy in finish, this incorporates nut oils and a subtle stoniness that enhance its sense of richness as well as intrigue. The refinement and understatement on exhibit here are quintessentially Rheingau, even if sadly no longer statistically Rheingau-typical. I suspect this will perform delightfully and perhaps ultimately even profoundly through at least 2030. With Peter Jost’s 65th birthday in the course of last year’s harvest, he officially went into retirement and daughter Cecilia Jost – who assumed a leadership role with vintage 2010 – took charge formally of this prestigious estate. But anyone who knows Peter and Linde Jost will rest assured that they are going to remain vitally active. A so-called “pre-harvest” pass (Vorlese) began for Josts in the Rheingau already in mid-September of 2011; picking in Mittelrhein sites began on the 20th; and harvest was in full swing by the end of that month, although it extended through mid-October. The surfeit of Oechsle on which Cecelia Jost remarked (see my introduction to this report) is evident throughout the present collection – with both alcohol and residual sugar often being higher than usual chez Jost – and a Hahn T.B.A. was still fermenting at the time of my tastings. Incidentally, the small portion of the Bacharacher Hahn that currently lies fallow will remain so for a total of at least three and possibly five years, since the Josts see this as a rare opportunity for letting the soil regenerate itself with the assistance of targeted cover crops, and one that should not be passed up for the sake of short-term gain. Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549-2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389-9463