Toni Jost Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spatlese

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Apple cider, musk melon, and nearly overripe peach in the nose of the Josts’ 2009 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spatlese carry over to a lush, expansive palate that preserves decent refreshment, but – at 11% alcohol, even with prominent sweetness – fails to deliver any sense of elegance, interaction, or levity. A suggestion of marzipan adds to the aura of near over-ripeness in a Riesling I can’t help but suspect would have benefited from earlier picking, and which I would plan to enjoy for its soothing richness within the next 5-7 years. (The corresponding 2008, on the other hand, will display impressive stamina and remains well worth looking out for.) For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category. Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463