Weingut Ratzenberger Steeger St. Jost Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The 2007 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Grosses Gewachs reached 13% alcohol, but is heat-free, and benefits from having stopped at the upper end of residual sugar for its luxury-trocken category. Pear and pear pit are prominent here just as in the corresponding Spatlese trocken, and the aroma and palate presence are dramatically intense. But thanks in part to judicious residual sugar and sheer extract this is a beautifully well-rounded Riesling. Bitter-sweet, satiny, and sumptuous, it finishes long on pear and raw almond tinged with salt and crushed stone. Rivetingly pure and refined, this Riesling is likely to be worth following for at least a decade. Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. expressed delight with his 2007s, and even though I’m straining to recollect a vintage with which he wasn’t pleased, the truth is, he and his father comprise one of the most consistently high-performance teams in German viticulture, and their 2007 collection is consistently impressive. Both of the Ratzenbergers’ 2007 vintage Grosse Gewachse – in what has been fairly typical behavior – finished fermenting only in mid-August, and were immediately bottled with barely enough time to appear at the annual Berlin Presentation of Germany’s collective wines in this genreImported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644