While Brundlmayer did not bottle a corresponding 2006 or 2007 - feeling that their quality did not merit a single vineyard showcasing of this grape - his 2008 St. Laurent Ladner (not bottled until shortly before I tasted it this June) nicely displays the deep, dark-cherry fruit with brown spice and smoky accents for all of which this child of Pinot Noir is known. What's more, there is a juicy exuberance here - extending through an invigoratingly pungent finish - that surely presages at least another 3-4 years of pleasure. Hints of red meat emerge as this opens, though less-so than usual. What tannin one notices simply adds a tactile dimension to the wine's stimulating personality. Incidentally, Brundlmayer has begun bottling this and his Zweigelt with a screwcap, stating that he deems this mode of closure appropriate to the fruity style of its cepage. Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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