Weingut Carl Loewen Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Mosel, Germany

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A precipitation of albumin in bottle wreaked havoc with what Loewen intended to sell as Thornicher Ritsch Grosses Gewachs, but the 2009 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule rendered from botrytis bunches and berries picked out alongside (in the upper portions of his holdings in that great but long-neglected site) to unburden the dry wine, has turned out impressively. Scents of musk melon, pineapple and mint with a whiff of smokiness lead to a creamy palate featuring glazed pineapple, liqueur-like herbal essences, and hints of caramelized peach. This doesn’t offer the refreshment of its “regular” Auslese counterpart, but is caressingly lush and irresistibly luscious, as well as capable of a quarter-century or more. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300