Though this is first and foremost a Cabernet producer, this fall Quilceda Creek will release an exceptional 2003 Merlot (400 cases). Produced with 12.5% Cabernet Franc, it brings to mind some of the finest St.-Emilions. Sweet black fruits and notes of roasted asphalt can be detected in its aromatics. Highly concentrated and dense, it is medium to full-bodied, suave, and silky-textured. Dark chocolate, blackberries, dark cherries, and hints of raspberries make up its boisterous flavor profile. Projected maturity: 2008-2020. Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues.(Not yet released)Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

Oaky, toasty and spicy, this thick, massive Merlot is packed with berries, cherries, plums and chocolate. The Cab Franc adds meaty tannins to the beautiful blueberry, blue plum and blackberry fruit. A sweet, supple Merlot with hints of coffee, black tea and earth. Makes you wish Quilceda made more of it. ——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 95