Containing 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2002 Merlot (200 cases) offers a deep, inviting aromatic profile of sweet cherries and flowers. Medium to full-bodied and hugely concentrated, this wine broadens on the palate to reveal a suave, pure, rich core of red cherries, blackberries, and hints of cassis. Pure, well-structured, and persistent, it displays wonderfully round, almost melted, tannin in its impressive finish. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues.Tel. (360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

Thick, dark and chewy, this is as good as Merlot gets. The source vineyard is Champoux, and it has also contributed a smattering of Cab Franc to the blend, which also includes 22% Klipsun Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a ripe, chewy wine, loaded with blueberry, blackberry, citrus and dried herb. Though front-loaded with big, jammy fruit, it continues to develop more subtle and complex strains of herb, tar and black tea as it unwinds. It has the authority, the density and the impact of Cabernet. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 94