Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre Gueule de Loup

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Bottled in February, his 2008 Cotes d’Auxerre Gueule de Loup reflects in Guilhem Goisot’s opinion an ideal combination of the advanced ripeness and pronounced mineral character attributable to this heat- yet also water-retentive white, rocky Portlandian limestone site. Iris, gentian, citrus oil, crushed chalk, and sea breeze in the nose lead to a subtly creamy yet refreshing, expansive yet delicate palate impression. Salt, iodine, crushed stone join persistent zesty citrus, piquantly cyanic cherry pit, and bitter-sweet floral essences in a strikingly long and buoyant finish. This beauty should be worth following for at least 5-6 years. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040