The 2006 Cotes d’Auxerre Gueule de Loup comes from a rocky yet clay-rich Portlandien Limestone site whose wine the Goisots first segregated in vintage 2004. Like its single-vineyard siblings, assembled in tank (the occasion of its sole racking) for a several month stay before bottling, it smells of tangerine, lime, and lily-of-the-valley; comes to the palate quite firm, with a chalky sense of density and saline, savory pan-dripping character; and finishes long on juicy citrus, sizzling citrus zest, and quite profound layering of the savory and the stony. While the track record is not yet in place for these Goisot single-site wines, I would anticipate at least 5-7 years’ interesting evolution from this one. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29