Pleasing pear and light vanilla aromas lead into a nicely textured, lively and distinctly un-flabby chardonnay. This is the least expensive of five chardonnays from Ste. Michelle that all showcase winemaker Bob Bertheau’s elegant, light touch. Happily, there is no reliance on buttered popcorn flavors or excessive new toasty oak to make the flavors pop; this is a great food wine, way ahead of most budget bottles from California.——P.G.(11/15/2005)—— 88