The 2007 Toscana Rosso Mazzoni (72% Sangiovese, 28% Merlot) is an entry-level red marketed under the Franceschi family name. It is a fresh, vinous wine meant to be enjoyed upon release. Fabrizio Bindocci is quick to point out that the Mazzoni is made from 100% estate-grown fruit. Be that as it may, the Mazzoni offers little of the character and personality that is the hallmark of the wines from Il Poggione. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci are on a roll. Il Poggione remains a benchmark property for fine, traditionally made Brunellos capable of ageing exquisitely. I can’t think of too many properties in the world producing wines of this level at these prices with an established track record going back 40+ years. I tasted an extraordinary range of wines at the estate in January 2010, including all of the Brunellos and Riservas in cask from vintages 2005-2009. Fans of this venerable estate have a lot to look forward to in coming years. As of this writing the most promising vintage in barrel appears to be 2006. The Brunellos are fermented with the submerged cap method, a traditional style of vinification that is common in Piedmont, but not in Montalcino. The wines are subsequently aged in French oak casks, with the Riserva seeing a higher percentage of newer oak. Unfortunately, the 2008 Rosso had not been bottled as we went to press, but I look forward to tasting that wine in the near future.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
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