There’s a fine wine in here, but it needs a little time for those pesky tannins to soften. They coat the mouth with astringency, making it hard to appreciate the fruit. But the fruit is there, in the form of pure, sweet cherries. It’s not a longterm ager, but a year or three in the cellar should make this soft, gentle wine more beautiful.——S.H.(4/1/2008)—— 90