The 2007 Haardter Scheurebe Kabinett trocken represents another simplification of labeling and line at Muller-Catoir, and bears a striking resemblance to this year’s Muskateller, featuring sage, apricot, and grapefruit. Brightly zesty and citric on the palate, with hints of tomatillo, gooseberry, and pungent herbs contributing to a performance of audacious pungency, this finishes with invigoration and lip-smacking juiciness. I would plan to ejoy it over the next 4-5 years. I learned too late – after having not been served it – that Muller-Catoir bottled this year their inaugural Sauvignon Blanc. My general attitude toward that grape in the Pfalz and Rheinhessen – Why grow it when once could celebrate Scheurebe as a dry wine? – might well be tested by the vinous results from this team. You had to play poker and take some chances this year, remarked Martin Franzen, and based on the vinous evidence, he repeatedly played winning hands. The stylistic evolution of wines under Franzen’s and proprietor Philip Catoir’s direction – which I honestly find it difficult to understand why so many commentators view as utterly discontinuous with the legacy of legendary former cellar master Hans-Gunter Schwarz – has run toward increasing refinement and subtlety in the Rieslings, for which conditions in 2007 – assuming (as one can, here) impeccable viticultural husbandry and patience at harvest – were ultimately ideal (even as they had been problematic in 2006). Franzen has turned out the first totally masterful Scheurebe collection of his career this year. And the nobly sweet wines – including, improbably, six tour de force TBAs, among which are the estate’s first-ever from Muskateller and Weissburgunder and first Scheurebe TBA since 1964 – dazzle with the audacity and at times raucousness that routinely accrue to nobly sweet Pfalz 2007s, and are at their best unsurpassed. Nearly all of this year’s collection (save for one refusenik Rieslander TBA) had been bottled already in April, a bold strategy considering how downright unsettled by nature some of them are. But capturing all of their energy in bottle seemed to be the governing metaphor. I cannot resist pointing out that – in keeping with a lamentable national trend – there is now not just no halbtrocken wine here, but no middle ground: every wine this year is either legally trocken or obviously sweet. Muller-Catoir is increasing their acreage of Pinot Blanc – in itself a welcome development, although partisans of Rieslaner will be dismayed to learn that it is coming at that variety’s expense.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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