Max Ferd. Richter Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

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The 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese is ominously smoky and faintly volatile in the nose, with pear nectar and honey emerging on the palate. Pure and refined like this year’s Richter Beerenauslesen, it comes off less sweet thanks to enormous – indeed almost brutal – brightness of acids and sheer extract. The feel of this wine in the mouth is viscous and plush, buffering the acids if not protecting one’s dental enamel. Fresh lemon, tangerine, honey, lemon meringue, and pears all have a voice in the rather strident chorus that is the finish of this youthful, 50-year wine. Also recommended: 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling “Zeppelin” ($16.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Classic ($18.00; 86), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($26.00; 85+?), 2005 Riesling ($18.00; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($25.00; 86+?).Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800