Vinified entirely in barrels of mixed ages, the Long-Depaquit 2008 Chablis Bougros succeeds in integrating its oak element much more successfully than did the corresponding Le Clos (30% of which had been aged in barriques). Yellow plum, white currant, and grapefruit in the nose are suffused with salt and chalk on a subtly, ingratiatingly creamy palate yet the wine doesn’t lack brightness or refreshment. Slightly toasty, smoky, and spicy notes from barrel complement the fruit and mineral in a persistent finish. I would expect to follow this with fascination for at least 6-8 years. The Long-Depaquit 2008 grand crus were bottled already in January, though had I not known this I might have been tempted to ascribe their firmness and at times somewhat muted flavors in April to post-bottling shock. Seemingly aware of their potential for austerity, Long-Depaquit director Matthieu Mangenot indicated that he quite actively worked the lees of his young 2008s.Various importers, including Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515 and Bayfield Importing, Long Island, NY (718) 482-0200