White peach and grapefruit inform the polished-textured, distinctly wet stone-tinged generic Jost 2009 Riesling trocken, and a lick of salt in its finish enhances a sense of invigoration. This buoyant, 11.5% alcohol, quintessentially Mittelrhein Riesling should perform well for at least the next 2-3 years. (The low-toned and in its own way quite mineral corresponding generic Jost Rheingau Riesling – dubbed Jodocus, and carrying 13% alcohol – came off as slightly inelegant alongside.) For an account of some recent developments at this estate, please consult my report in issue 187. Interestingly, it was the wines from their Rheingau vineyards that suffered especially from sheer ripeness and consequent high alcohol; whereas the Josts’ best 2009s from their near-monopole Hahn escaped such difficulties and performed well indeed. Incidentally, every wine of the Josts’ save for their Grosse Gewachse – and that includes their two Pinots (which I don’t usually taste) – is now closed with screwcap, and they are among several growers I spoke with who intend to bottle their Grosse Gewachse with screwcap as well, as soon as the relevant bottles are available with the embossed Arabic numeral “1” and stylized grape cluster that identifies this category.Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections, Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463
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