With scents of fresh lime and tangerine, the Mochel 2005 Riesling Altenberg de Bergbieten sets the tone for its bright, juicy, elegant personality, as revealed on a surprisingly delicate palate and a finish that both refreshes in its primary juiciness and clings with a potently pungent combination of wood smoke, chalk dust and tangerine zest.Frederic and son Guillaume Mochel clearly work as an excellent team, farming almost exclusively acreage in the steep chalky slopes of Bergbieten’s Altenberg, but bottling only their top cuvees as vineyard-designated “Grand Crus.”A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.