Readers looking for an atypical, distinctive crushed tomato/herbaceous character should check out the 2002 Pinot Noir Nielson Vineyard. Medium-bodied and lean, it is dominated by its herb component to the detriment of its light cherry and strawberry fruit. This 2002 requires immediate consumption. Tel. (805) 937-7288

Where Byron’s regular ’03 Pinot is all about immediate gratification, this single-vineyard release, a year older, is a darker, brooding wine. Instead of red cherries, you get black ones. Cassis, too, and sauteed mushrooms with a splash of balsamic. Still there’s a delicious core of mocha. It’s an exquisite, silky Pinot Noir, firm and classic, and addictively drinkable. ——S.H.(12/15/2005)—— 94