Kubler’s 2008 Pinot Gris Zinnkoepfle extends the characteristics found in the corresponding “K” bottling – toasted almond; brown spices; peach; a hint of caramel; and saline, smoky, alkaline undertones – but with subtle oiliness and more overt sweetness that nevertheless fits the wine’s personality. There is an admirable sense of primary juiciness as well as lift in the finish. This ought to delight for at least the next 6-8 years. Philippe Kubler is among the few Alsace growers I met to have elected – quite reasonably in my opinion – to market some of his 2009s ahead of (and others concurrent with) the corresponding 2008s. He notes that “the styles are dramatically different, and the 2008s deserve a year or longer in the bottle whereas the 2009s are ready to drink.” That said, I suspect that save for the V.T.s among them, Kubler’s 2008s aren’t really built for long aging.Importers include Chateau St. Martin, Bellevue, WA; tel. (425) 462 1717 and Wine Symphony, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 226-8283
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