From one of the highest vineyards in California, at 3,000 feet, another dependably dry, complex wine from this specialist. It’s leaner than in previous years, with subtle citrus flavors, but very well structured. A real bite of lemony acid makes it perfect for a grilled trout. It’s also an ager and a good value. Best Buy. ——S.H.(6/1/2002)—— 87