Scents of dill and sour cherry in Bize’s 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune Serpentieres lead to another lean yet bright and juicy palate display, here underlain by suggestions of damp forest floor and laced with saliva-loosening salinity. The tannins here are quite refined, and the chalk-, alkali-, and salt-tinged finish sustained, if understated and bordering on the austere. I would look for at least a dozen years of interest and ultimately versatility.
Patrick Bize’s 2008s did not finish their malos until they were one year old, a statistic only slightly less startling given the vintage than it would otherwise be. (By contrast – and again, not all that exceptionally for their vintage – the 2009s had, despite Bize’s notoriously cold cellars, already done malo by February … the February after harvest, that is!) This domaine has long and with good reason counted as one of its village’s top performers – if not number one – and while its collections in 2008 and 2007 do not approach the superb quality achieved here in 2005, young Bize wines – like the man himself – are lean, sinewy, frequently understated yet incisive, and have a habit of making fools of their critics. They often “come from behind” in ostensibly “l(fā)esser” vintages, and not only the 2008s here but also the surprisingly energetic, focused 2007s should prove fascinating and rewarding to follow over the coming decade.
A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70
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