Undoubtedly the finest producer among the generic Bordeaux properties, Reignac's 2001 Bordeaux blanc, a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Semillon, and 5% Muscadelle, was made from tiny yields of only 21 hectoliters per hectare, aged on its lees for 8 months in 100% new oak, and bottled with as minimal clarification as possible. This gorgeous effort will probably not be as long-lived as some of the great whites of Pessac-Leognan, but it will provide strong competition over the next 2-4 years. Sumptuous notes of orange marmalade intermixed with honeysuckle, sealing wax, and lemon zest soar from the glass of this medium-bodied, elegant, brilliant, fresh, lively, and oh, so complex 2001. It is a knock-out dry white that demonstrates what is possible from a quality-conscious, highly motivated producer.

Smoky and toasty on the nose, then opens up on the palate to deliver waves of honeyed stone fruits and hints of caramel, all while being totally dry. It’s a nice, rich package, yet ends up finishing a little short. ——J.C.(6/1/2005)—— 86