The 2008 Pinot Noir Bryan Creek Vineyard is from a site planted in 1989. Reticent aromatically and more structured than the preceding wines, it will require cellaring to reveal its full potential. All the right stuff is present but patience will be required. Adelsheim Vineyards’ 2008 Pinot Noirs are uniformly outstanding as they were able to take advantage of the great fruit provided by the vintage. Tel. (503) 538-3652; www.adelsheim.com

How astonishing to find an Oregon Pinot Noir just under 13% alcohol that is fully ripe and fragrant with a perfect balance of fruit, herb and mineral. The young raspberry fruit flavors and overall lightness of this wine match beautifully with lox or smoked salmon. Despite its elegance, this strikes me as a wine that could turn out to be quite long-lived, given its impeccable balance. ——P.G.(12/15/2010)—— 91