Peter Zemmer makes bold wines that are determined in their territorial identity. The 2016 Alto Adige Chardonnay Riserva Crivelli offers a strong citrus character with lemon curd and grapefruit concentrate. Those are the high notes, but the low notes veer toward toasted almond and pine nut. The wine opens to an off-gold color with spice and natural rubber. Despite the delicate bouquet, the wine fans over the palate to reveal a firm, mid-weight palate. Only 4,000 bottles were made.