Crushed rocks, mint, wild flowers and herbs are some of the notes that take shape in the glass in the striking 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. Today, the 2010 comes across as quite cool, inward and tightly wound, which is surprising for a barrel-fermented Sauvignon. Nevertheless, this is a hugely impressive showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Dragonette is one of the most fascinating wineries in the Central Coast. The best wines are truly world class, and I don’t use those words lightly. At the same time, Dragonette suffers from the syndrome of trying to do an awful lot – maybe too much. At last count, Dragonette makes six Syrahs, eight Pinot Noirs, three Sauvignon Blancs, two Grenaches, a Mourvedre and a few other niche bottlings, all from vineyards in Santa Barbara County, the Santa Rita Hills and Paso Robles. That is a huge number of different wines from equally diverse appellations for what is essentially a small operation. It seems obvious, at least to me, that the overall level of quality and consistency would be much higher if Dragonette focused on their strengths.

A controversial wine that will have its fans. Dryness and acidity make it a little sour, and a medicinal taste invades the citrus and tropical fruits.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 84