Von Kunow’s 2005 Kanzemer Horecker Riesling Auslese** (labeled and referred to as “two star” due it its richness and intensity, although it is the only Auslese from this monopole in this vintage) offers a tropical and effusively ripe nose of mango, banana, pink grapefruit, and brown spices. Thickly rich, opulent, and ester-rich in the mouth, its ripeness and viscosity suggest a spiced tropical fruit paste. This formatively concentrated wine’s intense gaudy tropical fruit and wet stone finish is forceful, but lacks the clarity, refinement, or subtlety of the best wines at von Hovel and just doesn’t quite sing. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463