Reinhold Haart Piesporter Kreuzwingert Riesling Feinherb, Mosel, Germany

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The Haart 2010 Piesporter Kreuzwingert Riesling feinherb weighs in at less than 12% alcohol and tasting virtually dry. Such a balance was possible without any de-acidification or any significant blending, explains Johannes Haart, thanks to this site’s natural tendency to ward-off botrytis, which also meant they could leave it hanging almost to the last. Luscious pineapple and lime allied to salt, stone, cress, and hints of cassis or blackberry skin make for tingling, invigorating vivacity. Haarts say that their experience with this site suggests that if its wine is permitted to reach legal Trockenheit, it tends to loose its fruity charm and become more adamantly bitter-herbal in cast. A sense of fine slate suffusion and lip-licking salinity add interest as well as incentive to take the next sip of this vividly juicy Riesling which, ironically from my viewpoint, Johannes Haart says is probably his least popular bottling! I suspect it will be well worth following and prove versatile at table for at least a decade. Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463