The 1995 exhibits a similar blueberry component, but the wine is likely to be more controversial than the 1994. Although I expect it to settle down with bottle age, at present it is somewhat uncivilized, with exotic floral aromas intertwined with scents of leather, animal fur, and copious amounts of black and blue fruits. This chocolatey, fruity, expansively flavored wine is medium to full-bodied, with brilliant concentration, and excellent purity, but somewhat kinky at present. If it evolves along the lines of the 1994, it will be another knock-out wine from this tiny vineyard in southern Italy.This is a tiny estate of 5 acres with extremely low yields (under 2 tons of fruit per acre). Not surprisingly, particularly in view of the quality, the consulting oenologist is Riccardo Cotarella. The wines, from grapes grown on hillside slopes just north of Naples, are produced from a blend of 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso, the latter an indigenous Campania grape. I was blown away by the distinctiveness and individuality of these wines. Made from a vineyard planted at an elevation of 1,300 feet, on a volcanic, gravelly soil base, the wines are aged in 100% new French Allier and Nevers oak, and bottled with out any fining or filtration.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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