The funky artwork on the bottle emerges from Manfred Krankl's artistic side, but as the label says, "the truth is in the inside." I have already wolfed down two bottles of the 1997 Impostor McCoy (529 cases) with equally voracious friends. A thick, juicy, massive Syrah, it gushes copious quantities of licorice-infused blackberry fruit offering smoke, coffee, and meaty notes. The wine is mouth-filling, teeth-staining, and loaded. Its high alcohol (15.3%), glycerin level, and low acidity make it easy to drink, but I suspect it will age easily for 10-20+ years. Tel. (805) 649-8901; Fax (805) 640-1230

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