The tank sample of Rancy 2009 Mourvedre that I received was quite reduced. Nonetheless, a good shaking uncovered an attractive nose of fresh black raspberry and purple plum, with peppery accents that I would sooner have expected from a Syrah. The pungency of resinous herbs, bite of pepper, and tartness of fruit skin are joined on a firm but - as the wine took on air - increasingly juicy palate by a streak of mouthwatering salinity, all of which make for considerable invigoration in its persistent finish. There is promise here of an extremely talented libation, assuming it overcomes its reduction in the run-up to or process of bottling.If fame depended solely on quality, Jean-Hubert Verdaguer ought to be famous for his trove of ancient Rivesaltes. His younger Rivesaltes can be outstanding, too (see for example the 1996 about which I wrote in issue 184) - I just don't happen to have tasted any new examples of those in the past three years. Nor - on the basis of recent experience (though I have still not visited him) - ought Verdaguer's dry wines to be overlooked, either.A Connie and Patrick Allen Selection, United Estates Wine Imports, Worthington, OH; tel. (614) 543 1427