The grapes come from 30-year-old vines in the Champoux vineyard, near Canoe Ridge in southeast Washington. Deeply concentrated and Bordeaux-like, this beautifully made wine layers black fruit, cedar and streaks of iron ore with sculpted, refined tannins. Just 70 cases made. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.——P.G.(12/31/2002)—— 93