Nickel & Nickel continues its style of bone-dry, harshly tannic red wines that are not charming on release, but are so elegant, they give you hope. This ’06 Merlot has a deep heart of black and red cherries, red currants, mocha, bacon, anise and sandalwood, and could well develop bottle complexity after 2011 or so. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 88