Dry, lean and sawdusted on the nose, with vanilla aromas blending with simple plum and berry notes. Whole on the palate, with a creamy, mildly tacky feel, while the flavors of red fruits are regular at best and smothered with butter and wood resin. Solid enough but probably too woody given the wine’s weight and overall quality.——M.S.(7/1/2009)—— 85