For thoughts on Chateau Ste Michelle’s uniqueness and recent evolution, consult my extensive April, 2013 text designed to introduce recent tasting notes. Ste Michelle’s 2005 Meritage Artist Series is one of two wines I tasted from them on the present occasion (the other being its 2004 counterpart) that displayed a gamy and leathery aspect, which since other reds of this vintage performed so strongly and with so much juicy fruit still in reserve, I am inclined to attribute to a touch of brett. A faintly drying finish reinforces my suspicion. That said, there is still satisfying complexity here from lightly-cooked cherry, green herbs, blond tobacco, and mineral nuances. I would plan on enjoying this soon. Tel. (425) 488-1133

The 2005 Artist Series Meritage is composed of 57% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Petit Verdot and Malbec. Opaque purple-colored, the expressive bouquet jumps from the glass with notes of toasty oak, earth, blueberry, and black cherry jam. Supple, ripe, and layered on the palate, the wine has excellent depth and concentration and enough stuffing to evolve for 3-5 years. This classy wine should be at its best from 2012 to 2025. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

Tannic and chewy, with a leathery flavor that keeps the fruit at bay. With so many vineyard designates, the Ethos series and other high-end bottlings coming from Ste. Michelle, the Artist Series seems to take a back seat. It’s diffuse, tannic and simply does not stand with its peers.——P.G.(6/1/2009)—— 86