This is as close to Bordeaux as you’ll find in Washington, which is to say, darn close indeed. Cassis and earth, leaf and barrel mingle in the seductive nose. The wine, rich and ripe and deep, slowly opens to reveal layer upon layer of fruit, amplified with darker, mineral accents. Defining acids and a subtle hint of oak complete the experience. ——P.G.(12/31/2001)—— 91