The 2009 Syrah Watch Hill Vineyard is a distinctly cool-climate wine endowed with considerable nuance. Open, floral aromatics meld into a core of beautifully delineated fruit in this layered, multi-dimensional Syrah. Dark raspberries, flowers, spices and star anise are some of the nuances that linger on the impeccable finish. The Watch Hill Vineyard includes 5% of Viognier (from Grundoon Vineyard) that was co-fermented. The wine was aged in 50% new oak barrels, all of which it handles quite beautifully. Ideally, this could use another year in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. This set of wines from Andrew Murray is remarkable for its breadth of quality and sheer value.Tel. (805) 686-9604, info@andrewmurrayvineyards.com

If more Syrah tasted like this, the variety just might overtake Cabernet in popularity. It’s really good, combining a dry, firm structure with lush flavors, in the way of blackberries, blueberries, currants and a meatiness like the sweet, charred fat on a steak. Kudos to vintner Murray for bottling it in a screwtop.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 93