Comprising 44% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot from their own young vines with an assist from Ciel du Cheval, Cadence’s 2010 Coda delivers a lovely counterpoint of juicy blueberry and cherry fruit with shrubby herbs, cherry pit, huckleberry, Latakia tobacco, and iodine on a polished palate. A sweet suggestion of nut oils emerges as this takes on air, and its bitterness and pungency are confined in the finish to invigorating and protracting roles. A fine value, it delivers amazing textural refinement and flavor intrigue for a “second wine.” I’d suggest testing its inevitable versatility over the next 2-3 years.
In the mid 1990s, Texan Gaye McNutt and Ohioan Benjamin Smith determined to leave their Northwestern niches in software law and aeronautical engineering for the life of the vine. They purchased in 1997 what – following the birth of their daughter in 2001 and the nearly miraculous acquisition of water rights (after their supplier Larry Pearson of Tapteil Vineyard discovered he owned them) – became Cara Mia Vineyard. Ryan Johnson and Jim Holmes, manager and owner of nearby Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (another supplier), lent their assistance and crew to planting what turned out to be a site of fascinating geological complexity (including cobbles rafted on glacial ice from far distant places) that, beginning in 2006, has had an opportunity to express itself in vinous medium. Fermentation here is via inoculation (“I’m enough of a control freak to want that,” quips Smith), with a mixture of punch-downs and pump-overs in small lots, and the young wine goes to barrel (40-50% new yet consistently discreet) without settling once it has reached dryness.
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