The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Br?lées is one of the highlights in Domaine Leroy's formidable portfolio, soaring from the glass with an extroverted but almost ineffably complex bouquet of ripe blackberry, peony, game bird and wood smoke. On the palate, the wine is extraordinarily velvety and grand, with a lavish attack, a layered and multidimensional mid-palate and a long, saline finish—scintillatingly energetic despite the ripe, dramatic profile so typical of this climat. If there were ever any doubts about whether Aux Br?lées is one of Vosne-Romanée's finest premier crus, this bottle will dispel them. For now, the wine hasn't shut down, and I expect it to offer a very broad drinking window.