An interesting wine that depends on the right food matching to succeed. It’s dryish to honeyed, and enormously ripe and fruity, with apricot, nectarine, pineapple, jasmine, honeysuckle and all kinds of Asian spice flavors. Calls for complex dishes, such as lake fish or chicken and a savory chutney. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 86