Leclerc now owns a plot of 40-year old vines in Chambolle-Musigny and his 1991 Chambolle-Musigny-Les Babillieres reveals that he can lighten up on the oak when he moves to an appellation known for finesse-styled wines. This offering exhibits a sweet nose of black fruits, flowers, and minerals, with the oak playing a more subtle role. The result is a terrifically concentrated, rich, expansive, opulent wine that should drink well for 12-15 years. It is the sleeper wine, as well as the best bargain among the Leclerc offerings. The 1991 offerings are immense, even massive red burgundies, which, because of the abnormally low yields, are loaded with flavor. However, they also reveal aggressive wood levels. There is plenty of fruit, but there is a sawdust-like flavor to the wine, and the oak is annoyingly high. Importers: Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA and William Grant and Sons, Edison, NJ.
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