Wieninger Gruner Veltliner Preussen

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The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Preussen – harvested in late October from a historically-coveted site on the Nussberg – is partly aged in barrel because Wieninger thinks that helps integrate its characteristic levels of alcohol. Cherry blossom, mint, peach, and papaya in the nose lead to a lush, glycerin-rich, silken-textured palate that hides its roughly 14% alcohol and manages to bring considerable refinement and refreshment into a long, shimmering mineral and subtly pepper- and cress-tinged finish. This is a case of what Austrian or German vintners often call “extract sweetness”: you imagine there must be a hint of residual sugar amplifying all this effusive fruit, but in fact there are only two theoretically undetectable grams. It should merit following from bottle for 2-3 years. Fritz Wieninger has been the prime dynamo behind whatever over-due recognition the wines of Vienna have garnered over the past decade, and I have been remiss in not visiting with him until last year – too early, unfortunately, to assess certain of the 2007s from his sprawling line-up of cuvees, so the selection below is limited wines that were bottled early, or that I had occasion to revisit. “We are warmer in Vienna than the Wachau or Kamptal,” Wieninger reminded me, “and we can’t wait to harvest our vineyards until November, unless of course we want 15 or 16% alcohol. We need lighter wines, and for that, we have to harvest much earlier – which is unfortunate at times, because aromas are significantly enhanced through later picking, a practice suited to our terroir.” Wieninger seems to have mastered the balancing act that corresponds to this paradox of optimal harvest dates. His lighter wines do not display any unripe flavors.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700