The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Lindberg Reserve, coming from terraces overlain with loess, fermented spontaneously, although Bert Salomon is skeptical as to any difference that made. Be that as it may, there is a striking jump in quality here. Sweet pea, pink grapefruit, black tea, brown spices, and a mysterious minerality surge from the glass. Sappy, glossy, and rich on the palate and with terrific grip and reach, this displays tightly coiled springs of acidity embedded in luscious, spicy pink grapefruit citricity and yeasty, mineral nuances that tell you it’s time to stop word-smithing and drink a glass, even if tasting is the job you’re on! Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300