Not many Alsatian Pinot Noirs are exciting, but Marcel Deiss turned out an unfined, unfiltered, barrel-fermented 1994 Pinot Noir from 40-year old vines. Yields are low, and the wine reveals good fruit, but not much complexity or flavor dimension. By the standards of most Alsace Pinot Noir, it is an above average effort, but do not expect to substitute it for a fine Burgundy.Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579
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