What’s so interesting about this Chardonnay is the dryness and the earthy minerality. There are flavors of dried herbs and dried fruits, such as apricots, lemons and pink grapefruits. Usually these Dijon clones produce enormously fruity wines, but this fine wine has a sleek, high-acid Chablisian elegance. ——S.H.(8/1/2006)—— 90