Another wine that finished its malo “on time” (in the Spring), the Prieur 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet smells of fresh lime, peaches, vanilla, and chalk dust. Rather distinct leesy, okay, and lactic notes slightly conflict with the wine’s unusually strong citricity, but the latter makes for a blazingly bright finish. With its unusual combination of amplitude (yet no heat) with prominent acidity, and giving every indication of possessing genuine depth, this may well have gained harmony even short-term, but will need a few years in bottle to fully pull itself together. It should certainly reward at least 7-9 years of cellaring.
Harvest began here September 20, and oenologist Nadine Gublin (who recently added wine making direction at Brocard in Chablis to her duties) insisted their Chardonnay was not really ripe before them – even though its evolution was rapid – and that very little triage was necessary. Malo-lactic transformation was exceedingly protracted, and some wines were not finished even in November, 2007, when I last tasted them. The entire collection was rather obviously marked by their (40-100%) new wood; less so by its routinely over-14% alcohol.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.
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