Bursin’s 2004 Riesling is scented with sage, lime zest, and a hint of fusil oils. Quite rich and caressing in texture, but clear and bright on the palate in a way the 2005 wasn’t, this finishes with subtle herbal and chalky mineral suggestions, refreshing absence of sweetness, and lip-smacking juiciness.Agathe Bursin – whose inaugural vintage was 2000, prior to which her family sold their grapes to the local coop – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents. Although this widely-traveled young viticultrice (her preferred title) farms fewer only ten acres and is already chronically sold out, she says she does not intend to increase production by more than another third, and then only over the long run. Bursin indicated she had more botrytis in 2005 than in 2004, even though she harvested quite late (and even though this is the opposite experience from that of Mure in neighboring Rouffach) because Westhalten’s clay-poor soils generally retain very little moisture.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.
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