Another brilliant effort is the 2007 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille. Filled with notes of pineapples, honeyed melons, nectarines, and white currants, it reveals more toasty oak than its siblings as well as a smoky, roasted nut character. This full-bodied, utterly profound Chardonnay could easily pass for a Batard-Montrachet from France.
Brothers Nicolas and Luc Morlet (the former the winemaker and the latter a consultant) told me that 2008 was one of the smallest crops they have encountered, largely because of the late spring frosts, and windy conditions during flowering. Yields were low, but the quality was among the highest they have ever seen for Chardonnay, with a level of concentration reminiscent of the 2002s. As I indicated in issue #180, Peter Michael’s 2007 Chardonnays are spectacular. Production is about 30% higher per cuvee than in 2008, and these are exquisite efforts with lots of uplift, minerality, zesty aromatics, and refreshing acids. This year I should have a chance to taste the estate plantings from the huge investments Sir Peter Michael has made in Pinot Noir vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. In the meantime, here are some interesting efforts from sites where they contract for fruit.
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